If you have questions not answered below, please let us know! Use the contact form by clicking here:
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Q?
Where should I put my barn?
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A.
Find out what your county Zoning Dept. requires – for example there may be a 10’ setback from the property line. This also depends on the terrain – the less grading work to be done, the lower your cost! Just make sure you have good drainage and are close to utilities and access roads.
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Q?
Do I need a building permit?
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A.
Local zoning boards don’t usually require a building permit for an agricultural building, however they do require a zoning permit.
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Q?
How much will it cost?
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A.
Depends on size, grading, finishes and options you choose – call us today to get a general idea of what your budget can buy.
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Q?
How long does it take to build?
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A.
This depends on the size and finishes you choose. A typical 4-stall stable can take anywhere from four to six weeks.
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Q?
Why is post-frame better than metal?
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A.
Post-frame buildings are warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. They are much more attractive too! And, if well maintained, will last just as long.
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Q?
What direction should my barn face?
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A.
Center-aisle, shed row or run-ins should NOT face the prevailing winds. If they do it can create a wind tunnel effect with the doors open. Orient the stable at 45 degrees to the prevailing wind.
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Q?
Why is ventilation so important?
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Veterinarians and professional horse handlers recommend good ventilation for stabled horses to maintain their respiratory health. The stable should smell like fresh foliage and clean horses rather than manure or ammonia.
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Q?
What kind of flooring is best?
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A.
Many stall floor options are available. A good floor has some “give” and should absorb some of the impact and weight of a horse to reduce stress on their legs. It should be nonslip to prevent injuries – especially muscle pulls. And since horses have their heads close to the ground for most of the day, a non-odor (ammonia) retentive product is desirable. There are so many options – dirt, clay, concrete, gravel, bedding, rubber mats; it’s mostly a personal choice.
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Q?
Do I need stall windows?
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A.
It is not a “must” but a window or a Dutch door will provide much better ventilation and natural light.
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Q?
What kind of stall fronts should I use?
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A.
We normally build fronts with 2x6 tongue and groove pine boards to 4 ½ feet high with bars above to eight feet.
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Q?
What kind of stall doors are best?
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A.
Sliding doors are usually best (except in shed row barns) because they don’t take up aisle space when you open them. Sliders can be wood on bottom with bars above, or bars above with a 2”x4” mesh on the bottom to give better ventilation in hotter climates.
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Q?
What kind of lighting should I use?
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Good lighting makes everything more pleasant. We recommend windows and skylights wherever possible. The more you use natural light the lower your electric bills. Put a light in every stall, overhead or on the back wall on its own switch so you can turn it on without lighting the whole barn. For aisles use 8 ft. fluorescent tube lights with covers.
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Q?
What kind of Wash Stall should I have?
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A.
Every wash stall should have a concrete floor with a non-slip surface. The floor should be sloped to a trench drain at the rear of the stall. Walls should be treated lumber, concrete block, or some other water-resistant surface. Lights can be two 8’ fluorescents spaced one foot from wall for best lighting of the horse. Of course there should be two cross tie eyebolts. The fixture should be a frost-proof mixing valve and in a wall that has heated area on the other side.
